THE GREAT ALLEGHENY PASSAGE AND C & O CANAL RIDE

Grail, Oct 12, 19:58

On 8 September 2013 , we drove to Pittsburgh , PA to begin a bicycle ride along the Great Allegeny Passsage and the C & O Canal . Our oldest son Lee arrived on the 9th and we started the ride that afternoon. We changed the way we selected overnight accommodations on this trip. Rather than me selecting the hotel over the net, Mary and Ramona would scout the area around the pick up point and make the selection. This worked well. Some pickup areas were very isolated, requiring a drive of several miles to find a good overnight location. (Thank goodness for OnStar.)

The two trails run from Pittsburgh, PA to Georgetown in Washington, DC, a total of 335 miles. No motorized traffic is allowed on either trail. They join in Cumberland , MD.

The Passage route is a rails-to-trails path, maintained entirely by volunteers. The surface is mostly packed dirt with an 18 mile section of hard surface in and around Pittsburgh . Generally, a good riding surface.

Most impressive to me were the many bridges spanning streams and valleys along the trail. They we in excellent condition.

The trail runs through the aptly named Steel Valley as you leave Pittsburgh . Although there were many abandoned buildings in the valley, there was much industrial activity and clearly viable manufacturing going on. Somewhere along this section my camera fell out of the belt carrier that had successfully stored it for thousands of miles and was lost, along with the photos of the first part of the trip. The remaining photos were taken with my new I-phone, which I like. I may not replace the camera.

From Pittsburgh to the Eastern Continental Divide the trail climbs 1,675 feet over a distance of 126 miles, an increase so gradual that the only way you notice it is that the bicyclist you meet coming from the other direction are going faster, and smiling a lot. In general, the weather was excellent, cool and clear. Near the Divide we encountered the only adverse weather of the entire ride; a dangerous lightening storm and heavy downpour. It was bad enough that Lee and I maintained a 100 yard separation, so in case one of us was hit, the other could render aid.

One of the basis of the steel industry around Pittsburgh was the extensive coal deposits in the area. You will occasionally see outcrops of coal along the path.

This is a very historical area, with numerous markers that relate some of the more noteworthy events. George Washington, in command of a unit of Virginia Militia started the French and Indian War by ambushing a French patrol near the trail.

A few miles past the Divide we passed the Mason-Dixon survey line. It is well marked with white stones. Since we call the area south of the line Dixie , I wonder why we don't call the area north of the line Mason, or some variation of it.

South of the Divide we encountered three tunnels. The Big Savage tunnel is 3,300 feet long, lighted, with a good riding surface. Next was the Borden tunnel, 957 feet long. This one is not lighted, and has a rough surface. I had my rear tire go flat as I was riding through this one, lost control of the bicycle, and fell. I carry a first aid kit for such problems. Lee washed my cuts down with 3% hydrogen peroxide, I re-inflated the tire, and we rode on the pickup point in Frostburg. I had the tube replaced in a bike shop, but it continued to give me trouble, so had to replace the tire later on. The third tunnel was the Brush Tunnel, which was short and lighted.

At Cumberland, MD we changed to the C & O path, which follows the canal tow path all the way to Georgetown, DC. The path here is rougher, and less well maintained that the Passage. The area around Little Orleans is very remote. Finding accommodations is difficult. The surface is mostly a packed clay matrix with containing gravel, some pieces of which are large. Around Hancock there is a hard surface path that parallels the tow path for about 18 miles. (The Western Maryland Rail Trail.) There is a gradual down grade all the way to Georgetown , but there are many more people on the trail, bicycling and walking, especially on the weekend.

There are numerous areas of interest along the trail. You can see how the locks worked as many of them are still visible. The lock operator houses are still standing. Some of them have been restored and can be rented for an overnight. The only tunnel on this trail is the Paw-Paw Tunnel, 3,118 feet long and unlighted. We elected to walk the bikes through this one. (I learn slowly, but well.)

For most of the distance, the trail parallels the Potomac River . It is very scenic. There is one ferry that is still operating, (Whites Ferry) which contains a cafe that serve the best barbeque sandwich I have ever eaten. There are numerous markers pertaining to the Civil War along this part of the trip. We made a side trip to the Anitetam Battlefield, which is well maintained, and depressing considering that it was the bloodiest battle of that very bloody war. Our daughter Camille and her husband Alan Walbaum joined us for the tour and evening. We really enjoyed their visit.

According to the trail guide, the trail ends at the Georgetown Visitors Center . When we arrived, Georgetown was wall to wall people and cars, and the visitor's center was not to be found. Mary and Ramona had linked up with Eric Amacher, Ramona's oldest son, who really knows the area and got us all together.

We had a delightful dinner with Eric and his family. The next day, Lee and I drove to Arlington National Cemetery , and visited the columbarium where the remains of my friend Nils Johannesen are interred. I then drove Lee to Regan National, where he departed for home. That night Ramona treated all of us to my 81st Birthday dinner. (Glad I completed the ride while I was only 80.)

The next day we drove to Williamsburg, VA and had lunch with my cousins Lucy McEver, and her daughter's family Robbye and Sam Daniel and their daughter Mona. We then drove to Richmond and spent the evening with our granddaughter Abby and her husband Kevin White in their completely refurbished three-floor 5 bed room home. Very impressive. On the 19th of September we drove home to Tellico Village, ending what was a delightful bicycle trip.